It's easy to put all those little brown spots, patches and areas of uneven skin tone into the sun damage category. But pigmentation is a little more complicated than that. While years of sun exposure certainly play a significant role, there are other factors at work. The freckles you've had since childhood, the sunspots that have appeared over the years and the patches of pigmentation that developed during pregnancy may look similar, but they can have very different causes.
When it comes to improving pigmentation, those differences matter because understanding what's happening in your skin is just as important as choosing the right treatment.
What's behind those brown spots?
Our skin gets its colour from melanin, a natural pigment produced by specialised cells called melanocytes. Melanin also plays an important role in helping protect our skin from UV radiation. When melanin is produced or distributed unevenly, we can develop areas of darker pigmentation. But what triggers that uneven production varies considerably.
Sunspots (age spots)
These are among the most common forms of pigmentation we see as we get older. They're usually flat, brown spots that appear on areas regularly exposed to the sun, particularly the face, hands, chest and shoulders. Sunspots are the result of cumulative UV exposure, which is why they tend to become more noticeable with age. Even if you're diligent about sun protection now, the effects of earlier sun exposure can become visible years later.
Freckles
We are not born with freckles and they are largely influenced by genetics, but sun exposure is what stimulates their appearance and makes them darker. They often first appear during childhood, particularly across the nose, cheeks, shoulders and arms. You might also notice they become more pronounced during summer and fade a little over winter.
Melasma
Melasma is a little different. Rather than individual spots, it typically appears as larger, often symmetrical patches of brown or grey-brown pigmentation, commonly across the cheeks, forehead or upper lip. Hormonal changes can play a significant role, which is why melasma sometimes develops during pregnancy or alongside certain hormonal medications. Both UV and visible light can make it more noticeable, and it can be particularly persistent because the underlying triggers may remain active.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
Have you ever had a blemish or irritated patch of skin that left a dark mark long after the original problem had cleared? That's post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It occurs when inflammation or injury triggers increased melanin production. Acne, eczema and even overly aggressive skincare can contribute to it.
Why identifying the cause matters
Here's where things get interesting. Two people can have what looks like very similar pigmentation, yet the most appropriate treatment for each may be quite different. For example, sunspots caused by years of UV exposure may respond well to treatments that target excess pigment. Melasma, however, requires a different approach because hormonal influences and other triggers may continue to stimulate pigment production.
Some types of pigmentation can also become worse when the skin is irritated or inflamed. This is why more intensive treatment isn't necessarily better. We always start by assessing your skin, the pattern and appearance of your pigmentation, your history of sun exposure and any sensitivity. Understanding what we're treating helps us recommend an approach that's both effective and appropriate for your skin.
And one important reminder: any new, changing or unusual pigmented spot should be checked by a qualified medical professional before laser treatment.
What can be done about pigmentation?
The good news is that many forms of pigmentation can be improved with the right combination of professional treatments, skincare and ongoing sun protection. We have several technologies available at About Skin, each working in a slightly different way. This allows us to tailor treatment to the type of pigmentation you have, your skin type and the results we're looking to achieve.
Targeting sunspots and visible sun damage
For pigmentation caused primarily by sun exposure, light-based treatments can be particularly effective.
eLOS Skin Rejuvenation combines light and radiofrequency technologies to target suitable superficial pigmentation, including sunspots and freckles, helping create a clearer, more even-looking complexion.
Cutera LimeLight IPL uses intense pulsed light to target excess pigment in the skin. As the light is absorbed by the pigment, it generates heat that helps fade visible discolouration. One of the additional benefits of LimeLight is its ability to improve certain types of redness and small visible blood vessels. This makes it a useful option when both brown spots and redness are contributing to an uneven complexion.
While both technologies can improve visible sun damage, they work differently. We'll assess your skin to determine which is most appropriate for you. Often, a combination of treatments is the best plan.
Improving overall skin tone and quality
Sometimes uneven skin tone is just one of several concerns. You might also be noticing redness, enlarged pores, changes in texture or the early signs of ageing. This is where Cutera Laser Genesis is incredibly beneficial. Using a gentle 1064 nm laser, Genesis delivers controlled heat beneath the skin's surface to stimulate collagen production and improve overall skin quality.
It helps improve the appearance of diffuse redness, uneven tone and texture, leaving skin looking smoother, clearer and healthier, with little to no downtime for most clients. For some people, Laser Genesis may be recommended on its own. For others, combining it with a treatment that more directly targets visible brown spots can help address several skin concerns as part of a tailored programme.
Supporting healthy skin renewal
Clinical skin peels can also play a role in improving superficial pigmentation and uneven texture. Using carefully selected ingredients, professional peels encourage exfoliation and healthy skin renewal, helping improve skin clarity and brightness. They're not necessarily our first choice for every pigmentation concern, but can be a useful addition to a treatment plan where appropriate.
A note about melasma
Melasma requires particular care. Because it can be influenced by hormones, heat and light exposure, some laser, light and peel treatments can make it worse. This is why we take the time to identify the type of pigmentation and assess your skin before treatment. Where necessary, we may also recommend seeking medical advice to help determine the best approach.
Your best defence is to protect the skin you're in
As we head into another New Zealand summer, there's no better time to talk about sun protection. UV exposure is one of the biggest contributors to pigmentation. It can stimulate new pigment production, darken existing spots and contribute to pigmentation returning after treatment.
A good broad-spectrum SPF 50 or SPF 50+ sunscreen, used every day, is one of the most valuable products you can have in your skincare routine. Apply it generously and remember to reapply as directed, particularly when you're outdoors, swimming or sweating.
Combine it with shade, a broad-brimmed hat and protective clothing when UV levels are high. If you're prone to melasma, a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxides may also provide additional protection against visible light.
And don't underestimate the importance of good homecare
The products you use every day can make a real difference to maintaining your results. We can recommend an Xcell Medical Skincare routine tailored to your skin, with ingredients that support hydration, healthy skin renewal and the skin's natural protective barrier.
If you're prone to pigmentation, be particularly careful with harsh exfoliants or products that cause irritation. Inflammation can sometimes make pigmentation worse, so a considered approach is always best.
A clearer understanding of your skin
Pigmentation is incredibly common, and there's no single solution that works for everyone. Whether you're concerned about a few sunspots, uneven skin tone or more persistent patches of pigmentation, the starting point is understanding what's causing them.
Improvement may be gradual, and some types of pigmentation need ongoing care to maintain results. But with the right combination of professional treatment, homecare and sun protection, you can make a real difference to the appearance and overall health of your skin.
If you'd like personalised advice, book a complimentary skin consultation at About Skin. We'll assess your skin, discuss your concerns and recommend a treatment plan to help you achieve a clearer, more even-looking complexion.